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Thursday, 1 March 2012

How to grow Pineapples in Zimbabwe

How to grow Pineapples  


As it is indigenous to the tropics, the crop requires areas where the climate is warm,
humid and free from extreme temperatures (25 °C being optimal). These areas
have a great potential for pineapple production.

Cayenne and Queen cultivars

The Smooth Cayenne cultivar is used for both canning
(75 % of which is exported) and as fresh fruit. The Queen,
because of its high sugar content and unsuitable canning
qualities, is cultivated only for fresh consumption. However,
because production of the Queen pineapple is more costly,
fresh consumption is shifting towards the Cayenne.
Cayenne plants and the fruit are normally larger than that
of the Queen, with succulent yellow fruit. Queen fruit has
a golden yellow colour and is less juicy.

Planting requirements

Pineapples can be grown in a variety of soil types but
prefer mildly acid soils (pH 5,5–6,5). However, there are
certain requirements for successful pineapple production,
which include:
Planting material

Plant pineapples between July and December.
Why?
• For rapid growth and uniform stand
• The temperature during this time ranges from satisfactory to ideal
Do not plant between February and April.
Why?
• Temperatures become progressively lower
• Retarded growth, poor and uneven stand
Farm planning, selection of soils and land layout
Consider the following factors when designing the layout of the land where you are going to
plant pineapples as they will affect production:
• Climate—is it warm, humid and frost free? The occurrence and intensity of rainfall
should also be considered
• Soil type—clayey loams or sandy soils are ideal for planting
• Natural obstacles—rocky outcrops and vleis
• Soil conservation—unprepared soil usually results in poor plant uniformity, root
development and weed control
• Position of windbreaks—to protect soil and crops
• Topography—gentle slopes will require a layout different from that for steep slopes.
Steep slopes are more difficult to manage and cultivate (more powerful machinery is
required)
The aims in the layout of a pineapple land are to:
– control water runoff and thereby limit soil erosion
– facilitate good drainage and prevent root and heart rot
– uniform distribution of sunlight to all plants
– have roads allowing machinery easy access to the pineapple plants (to expedite
harvesting and spraying).

Planting

Planting is done by hand, with or without the aid of a planting machine. Use of the latter
results in uniform, neat plantations.
Plant spacing
Spacing from ridge centre to ridge centre: 1,5 m.
Each ridge must carry a double row of plants.
Spacing between rows should be 600 mm.
Spacing between the plants in the row: 300 mm.

Weed control
For the control of most broad-leaved weeds and annual grasses, contact herbicides can be
used.

Pest and disease control

Effective control measures are available for the most important pests and diseases.
Pesticides used to control soil pests and diseases should be incorporated into the soil
before ridging, with booster applications if required.
Pests above the soil level are usually controlled by spraying with a foliar pesticide during
the period when the pests are most active.
Always read the label on the pesticide containers.
Why?
• To know if pH sensitive or biodegradable, i.e. whether it breaks down rapidly in direct
sunlight
• To find out how to get the desired control with minimum impact on the environment
• For the safety of workers

Fertilisation

Use the following fertilisers
Hand applied fertiliser:  ammonium sulphate 100 N (sulphate of ammonia)
—10 pockets/ha
Phosphate:   drilled into the ridges
0–300 kg/ha (Saaifos and zinc)
Potassium:   broadcast before ridging
0–400 kg/ha (potassium chloride)
Mixture:   drilled/broadcast
0–600 kg/ha (0:1:6 + Mg/Zn)

Forcing agents
With the use of forcing agents, the pineapples can be made to bear fruit at virtually any
time of the year.
Why?
• It initiates flowering, shortens crop cycle and increases yield
• It ensures uniform, complete and concentrated cropping
Fruit colouring or yellowing
Fruiting agents can also be applied to colour fruit, by spraying or brushing onto fruit. This
ensures uniform colouring of the fruit in a plantation.

Irrigation

The pineapple plant is able to utilise rainwater and even dew very effectively. Therefore, the
heavy dew that occurs in the coastal regions is so valuable to pineapples that irrigation may
not even be necessary. Supplementary irrigation could, however, sometimes be essential
and of great value.

Harvesting
Harvesting should be done 7 to 14 days after yellowing. It is labour intensive because
workers walk in the space between ridges to pick the fruit by hand, loading it into baskets,
or onto a boom harvester.
After harvesting the crowns are broken off (not twisted) and left on top of the plants in the field
or are placed in bags to be collected at a later date for planting.
Make sure that the fruit is not too green or too ripe when harvested, not bruised or damaged
and that it is not affected to a large extent by any physiological problems.

How to grow Pecans in Zimbabwe

How to grow Pecans

Pecan-nut trees are fast growers and can become very tall.
The nut has a high nutritional value because it is rich in protein,vitamins, carbohydrates and nut oil.

Nut size and kernel development
Factors causing poorly filled nuts:
• A general water shortage
• Limited carbohydrate reserve
• Early leaf-drop (caused by scab disease or inadequate fertilisation)
• Zinc deficiency
• General tree starvation
• Unfavourable weather conditions such as cool summers.

Climatic requirements
• The pecan-nut tree is well adapted to subtropical areas.
• It also grows well in areas with short, cold winters and long, very hot summers.
• Low temperatures and even frost during June to August are required for successful budding and flower formation.
• During the summer months (October to April) the tree requires high temperatures for fruit growth.
• Trees are successfully established in valleys and along rivers where the winter temperature is low and frost occurs.
• In the subtropical areas only cultivars that are tolerant to scab should be planted sincehumidity is very high along rivers, in valleys and in low-lying areas.
Temperature
The average monthly maximum temperature should be higher than 28 °C during summer
and lower than 23 °C in winter.
The average monthly minimum temperature during the summer must rise above 16 °C, but
drop below 8 °C in winter.

Humidity and rainfall
High humidity and rainfall are ideal for the development of scab.
The most suitable production areas are therefore those with short, cold winters and long,
hot summers, with no early or late frost and a humidity below 55 % during the greater part
of the growing season.

Soil requirements
The pecan-nut tree performs best in a fertile, well-drained, deep soil with a loose to medium texture.

Cultivars
To produce pecan nuts successfully and profitably, it is essential to plant cultivars that comply with the high standards concerning adaptability to an area, disease tolerance,production, kernel percentage, nut size and shape, appearance and taste of the kernels.

Tolerance to scab
• Scab is a fungal disease that can spread rapidly in areas with a high summer rainfall and humidity.
• It can be controlled with fungicides, but the long-term solution is to plant cultivars with a high degree of natural resistance to the disease.
The following cultivars are resistant to scab and can be produced in all production areas:
Moore (Bester), Barton, Ukulinga, Shoshoni (also areas with a high rainfall and humidity).

Soil preparation
Examine the soil regarding depth, drainage and compacted layers.
• The soil should be at least 2 m deep.
• The physical suitability of a soil can only be evaluated by digging holes in the ground and examining the soil profile.
• If these properties are suitable for growing pecans, the soil should be prepared carefully
and well in advance of planting.

Soil sampling
A representative sample of the proposed orchard must be taken for soil analysis. This sample should be taken 12 to 24 months, or at least 9 months, before planting. This gives the farmer ample time to thoroughly prepare the soil, particularly if large quantities of lime are required.

Method of soil preparation
If the soil is very acid, heavy lime applications may be necessary. In such a case two-thirds of the recommended agricultural lime must be distributed over the entire area 12 months before planting, mixed into the topsoil by disking, and then ploughed in as deeply as possible. Because calcium (lime) moves very slowly in the soil, it is essential to work it intothe future root zone of the trees.
A cover crop can then be planted and ploughed in 6 months later. This will increase the organic matter content of the soil. The remaining lime and all the required phosphate must be applied and lightly worked in simultaneously. The trees can then be planted 3 months later.
If soil samples have not been taken early enough to proceed as described,two-thirds of the lime must be mixed with the soil and ploughed in deeply; the phosphate and the rest of the lime are then distributed and worked in lightly. If large quantities of lime are required, this must be applied at least 3 months before planting, thoroughly mixed with the soil and worked in deeply.

Planting
The pecan-nut tree is deciduous and can therefore only be transplanted during the winter. The best results are obtained when establishing orchards with trees planted during July and August.

Nursery trees
• The pecan tree has a long, strong tap-root system.
• The tap root has to be cut at a length of 1 m with a sharp spade. The tree should then
be carefully removed from the soil and immediately taken to a shed or shady place.
Cover the roots with wet sawdust or any other suitable damp material to prevent them from drying out.
• Inspect the trees carefully, and discard those with bent roots.

Planting in orchards
• Loosen the topsoil to a depth of 1 m before planting.
• The depth of the hole must be deeper than 1 m, or at least 200 mm deeper than the length of the tap-root.
• Some loose soil should be replaced, so that the cut end of the tap root is in loose soil.
This promotes vertical root growth during the first season of establishment.
• Well-rotted compost (plant material) can be added to the hole.
• Zinc fertiliser (22 % Zn) should be added (0,5 kg/ hole) and mixed well with the topsoil.
No other fertiliser should be applied at planting.
• Plant the tree at exactly the same depth in the orchard as it was in the nursery. If it is planted too shallow, the root collar will be exposed to the sun, causing sunburn andeventual die-back or stunted growth.

Aftercare
• Newly planted trees must be irrigated immediately. Thereafter, irrigation should be
applied carefully, because too much water given before the tree starts growing, may
cause the roots to rot.
• They should be treated against possible termite attacks by timeously destroying all
termite nests in the vicinity.
• The trees should be white-washed to prevent sunburn damage. It is advisable to put a straw mulch around the base of the young tree for better moisture conservation and toprotect the roots against high temperatures. After planting, the trees must be topped toencourage branching to form a framework. A height of 1 m is recommended.
• Inspect young trees regularly during the first season after planting.

Fertilisation
• Do not fertilise young, transplanted trees too soon. They must first become well established and start growing vigorously.
• The first application should only be made one year after planting. Never apply fertilisers against the stems of the young trees.
• Immediate irrigation is important.

Fertilisers
• Fertilisers should be spread evenly about 0,2 m from the stem to about 0,5 m outside
the drip area of the tree.
• Each fertiliser application must be followed by a light, controlled irrigation. Fertilisers must
not be worked in.
• Once the trees are established and start growing, fertilisers should be applied regularly
according to the table.

Annual application of fertilisers for pecan-nut trees
Application    LAN   Superphosphate   Potassium chloride
g/tree/year       250                   300                       100
Maximum application:
kg/tree/year    4,5                        3                           2
Time of application
• August: 1/2 of the LAN + all the superphosphate
• October: 1/2 of the LAN + all the potassium chloride

Zinc
Since most soils are low in zinc or the zinc is not available, this element must be added every year. Spray with 150 ml NZN or 200 g zinc oxide/100 l water when the leaf buds are 50 mm long. Repeat at least 3 times at intervals of 2 to 3 weeks. It may be necessary in some cases to spray as many as 5 times.

Boron
Many orchards are low in boron. The trees should be sprayed every 2 years with 100 g borax or 75 g Solubor/100 l water from the start.

Leaf and soil analyses
Soil and climatic differences as well as cultural practices greatly affect the quantities of
fertilisation that have to be applied.
Soil and leaf analyses give an excellent indication of the actual requirements of a particular planting. If is therefore recommended that, when the trees reach fruit-bearing stage, full use.The pecan-nut tree has a deep-tap root system, but for optimum irrigation purposes it will be adequate to supply the top 1 m with water.
Recommended wetting area based on tree age
Age (years) Diameter (m) of wetting zone Wetting area (m2)
1–2                               2,0                                    3
3–5                               3,0                                     7
6–10                            4,5                                   16
11–15                         6,5                                    33
15+                             8,0                                    50

Pruning
Scaffolds
• To obtain a well-balanced tree, all scaffolds must develop evenly around the main stem,about 300 to 360 mm apart.
• Scaffolds must be pruned back during the second, third and fourth seasons. The primary bud is not removed so that the scaffold can continue growing upwards and outwards.
• Primary buds are only removed on the leader shoot to form scaffolds.
Summer pruning
• Scaffolds are pruned in summer (Nov/Dec) by removing 100 to 200 mm of the growth.
This forces a branch to develop numerous lateral branches which can bear fruit during the same year in which they were pruned.
• Summer pruning dwarfs a tree and will increase production considerably during the first
10 years.
• After 10 to 15 years the producer can start pruning adult trees, especially if they begin crowding one another.
• The young tree must be shaped from the day it is planted.
• Control the growth that follows pruning.
Rejuvenation pruning
Many old trees with declining production and nut quality can be stimulated to more active
growth and increased nut production by pruning. By completely pruning back a big tree,
the production of 1 or 2 years is lost, but later new growth and the resultant increase in the
production of nuts with improved quality compensate for this.

Growth regulants
A registered plant growth regulant will control excessive vegetative growth. This substance
must be applied strictly according to the directions on the label. If pruned trees are treated,
the concentration of the recommended dosage must be reduced by half.

Diseases
Scab
• Scab is caused by a fungus and is the most important disease in pecan nuts in South Africa.
• Early symptoms are the appearance of numerous small,brown to black spots, especially on the underside of the leaves. The spots become larger and merge until the entire leaf turns black. Immature leaves drop off.
• Similar spots are visible on the shuck of the nut .Such nuts suffer from delayed development
and they are misshapen. Immature nuts may drop off and have no commercial value.
• The fungus winters on branches and old shucks that have dropped. Fungal spores rapidly develop in spring and are spread by wind and rain. New spring growth on the trees is infected when the leaf surfaces are wet, especially after rain.
• Susceptibility for the disease varies in different cultivars. Ukulinga, Shoshoni, Moore and Barton are regarded as highly tolerant, while Mohawk, Wichita and Chocktaw are susceptible.

Pests
Pecan nut stem borer
• The stem borer is sporadically observed on pecan-nut trees.
• The first sign of infestation is red-browngranular excretions around the base of the trunk. This discharge comes from the pink coloured larvae which haveburrowed into the trunk and branches of the trees.
• The tunnels vary in size according to the age of the larvae and can be up to pencil thickness. Numerous tunnels occur in a single tree trunk.
• Young larvae hatch from the middle of December until the end of February. The larvae reach their maximum size of approximately 40 mm during spring and early summer. At this stage the larvae become inactive and change into pupae in the tunnels. The pupal stage lasts approximately 6 weeks and it appears that only 1 generation occurs per year. The larvae remain in the trunk for about 11 months.

Control
• Good chemical control of the larvae in the tunnels can be obtained. By removing larval excreta around the stem just after spraying, the producer can later determine whether some of the tunnels were skipped during spraying.
• In young trees a piece of soft wire can be used to kill the larvae in the tunnels. This method, although primitive, is very effective and must be undertaken during winter when the tunnels and the excreta are more noticeable around the stem of the tree.
Bark borer
• Larvae of bark borer feed on the living bark of pecan-nut trees, especially in young plantings. They later bore into the hard wood.
• Penetration is usually where branches are formed and can occur in branches of any thickness.
• The holes in the branches that serve as shelter for the larvae, are about 70 mm long and 5 mm in diameter when the larvae reach maximum size.
• Feeding marks on the bark are covered with larval excreta spun together with threads in such a way that the larvae can move freely underneath the threads. As the larva feeds, this “house” of spun threads and
excreta becomes bigger and could be found around a branch. Although infested trees do not die, the branch is ring-barked and it could die back.
Control
• Good control can be achieved with a registered chemical, even if only the lesions on the branches are treated.
• It is not necessary to remove the excreta from the branches before spraying.
• Spraying of the entire tree is not recommended.

Parasitic plants in pecan-nut trees
Parasitic plants, Tapinanthus spp. (bird-lime), occur in most pecan-nut producing areas of South Africa. These plants have no root system and parasitise the host plant. Theydebilitate the tree and reduce the bearing area.
The plants, with their red and yellow flowers, are easily seen in the tops of pecan trees, especially during winter and September.
Control
There is no chemical control method for these parasitic plants. The only way is to prune the parasitic plants. The branch on which the bird-lime grows must be cut off and removed from the orchard.

Harvesting
Depending on the area, pecan nuts usually ripen from April to July. As soon as the nut is physiologically ripe, the green husk becomes dry, cracks open and the nut drops out. In South Africa the nuts are mainly collected manually from under the trees. A certain percentage of the nuts, for various reasons, do not drop. These nuts are calledstickers and must be shaken from the trees. If a very large percentage of the nuts are stickers, it may be because of poorly filled nuts, scab or other factors such as irrigation and fertilisation.

Storage
The nuts can be stored at room temperature for as long as 6 months before they are marketed. Shelled nuts realise a much higher price than unshelled nuts, but the processing equipment is very expensive and
most producers market cooperatively or through a processor. After processing the nuts are usually packed in vacuum-sealed packages, which means that they can be stored for a very long time.

Pomegranate - Punica granatum in Zimbabwe

Pomegranate - Punica granatum
Soils and Climate
Soil - Pomegranates are fairly drought tolerant and can be grown on either calcareous or acid soils. Climate - Grow best in dry climates with mild winters. Chilling requirement - Unclear; can be grown in tropical climates without chilling. Cold hardiness - Wood tolerates temperatures down to -11°C.
The pomegranate thrives on calcareous, alkaline soil and on deep, acidic loam and a wide range of soils in between these extremes
Propagation
Pomegranate seeds germinate readily even when merely thrown onto the surface of loose soil and the seedlings spring up with vigor. However, to avoid seedling variation, selected cultivars are usually reproduced by means of hardwood cuttings 25-50 cm long. Treatment. indole-butyric acid and planting at a moisture level of 15.95% greatly enhances root development and survival. The cuttings are set in beds with 1 or 2 buds above the soil for 1 year, and then transplanted to the field. Grafting has never been successful but branches may be air-layered and suckers from a parent plant can be taken up and transplanted.
Pollination
The pomegranate is both self-pollinated and cross-pollinated by insects. There is very little wind dispersal of pollen. Self-pollination of bagged flowers has resulted in 45% fruit set. Cross-pollination has increased yield to 68%. In hermaphrodite flowers, 6 to 20% of the pollen may be infertile; in male, 14 to 28%. The size and fertility of the pollen vary with the cultivar and season
Cultivars
Types with relatively soft seeds are often classed as "seedless". Among the best are 'Bedana' and 'Kandhari'. 'Bedana' is medium to large, with brownish or whitish rind, pulp pinkish-white, sweet, seeds soft. 'Kandhari' is large, deep-red, with deep-pink or blood-red, subacid pulp and hard seeds. Others include:
'Alandi' ('Vadki')–medium-sized, with fleshy red or pink, subacid pulp, very hard seeds.
'Dholka'–large, yellow-red, with patches of dark-pink and purple at base, or all-over greenish-white; thick rind, fleshy, purplish-white or white, sweet, pulp; hard seeds. The plant is evergreen, non-suckering, desirable for commercial purposes
'Kabul'–large, with dark-red and pale-yellow rind; fleshy, dark-red, sweet, slightly bitter pulp.
'Muscat Red'–small to medium, with thin or fairly thick rind, fleshy, juicy, medium-sweet pulp, soft or medium-hard seeds. The plant is a moderately prolific bearer.
'Paper Shell'–round, medium to large, pale-yellow blushed with pink; with very thin rind, fleshy, reddish or pink, sweet, very juicy pulp and soft seeds. Bears heavily.
'Poona'–large, with dark-red, gray or grayish-green rind, sometimes spotted, and orange-red or pink-and-red pulp.
'Spanish Ruby'–round, small to medium or large; bright-red, with thin rind, fleshy, rose-colored, sweet, aromatic pulp, and small to medium, fairly soft seeds. Considered medium in quality.
'Vellodu'–medium to large, with medium-thick rind, fleshy, juicy pulp and medium-hard seeds.
'Muscat White'–large, creamy-white tinged with pink; thin rind; fleshy, cream-colored, sweet pulp; seeds medium-hard. Bears well. Desirable for commercial planting in South Africa
Culture
Rooted cuttings or seedlings are set out in pre-fertilized pits (60 cm) deep and wide and are spaced 3.5-5.5 m apart, depending on the fertility of the soil. Initially, the plants are cut back to 60-75 cm in height and after they branch out the lower branches are pruned to provide a clear main stem. Inasmuch as fruits are borne only at the tips of new growth, it is recommended that, for the first 3 years, the branches be judiciously shortened annually to encourage the maximum number of new shoots on all sides, prevent straggly development, and achieve a strong, well-framed plant. After the 3rd year, only suckers and dead branches are removed. For good fruit production, the plant must be irrigated.
Pests and Diseases
Pomegranate butterfly, Virachola isocrates, lays eggs on flower-buds and the calyx of developing fruits; in a few days the caterpillars enter the fruit by way of the calyx. These fruit borers may cause loss of an entire crop unless the flowers are sprayed 2 times 30 days apart. A stem borer sometimes makes holes right through the branches. Twig dieback may be caused by either Pleuroplaconema or Ceuthospora Phyllosticta. Discoloration of fruits and seeds results from infestation by Aspergillus castaneus. The fruits may be sometimes disfigured by Sphaceloma punicae.
Dry rot from Phomopsis sp. or Zythia versoniana may destroy as much as 80% of the crop unless these organisms are controlled by appropriate spraying measures. Excessive rain during the ripening season may induce soft rot.
Minor problems are leaf and fruit spot caused by Cercospora, Gloeosporium and Pestalotia sp.; also foliar damage by whitefly, thrips, mealybugs and scale insects; and defoliation by Euproctis spp. and Archyophora dentula. Termites may infest the trunk.

Training Young Trees
Trees may be trained to a bush, single- or multiple-trunked tree. The bush form is satisfactory for backyards or hedgerows, but is undesirable for good commercial production.
Trees form the nursery are planted bare root in winter or early spring. The natural growth habit of the pomegranate is to produce many suckers from the base of the tree. If a single truck tree is desired, only one vigorous sucker or the trunk of the original nursery tree should be selected and branches grown from it. Basal suckers should be removed periodically to promote growth form the main trunk of the newly planted tree. If the orchard trees are to be developed into a multiple-trunk system, five or six vigorous suckers should be selected around the base of the young tree and allowed to grow.

Selection of the five or six suckers to be developed into permanent trunks may take two or three or more years until good trunks are correctly positioned to form a sturdy and symmetrical tree. All other suckers should be removed in summer and during dormant pruning.
Many growers prefer the multi-trunk system. In case of frost injury, usually only one or two trunks are injured, leaving the others to continue bearing. New trunks can be trained from suckers and full production restored to the tree in 2 or 3 years. Single-trunked trees may be completely killed except for suckers coming form the ground. Trees trained to a multiple truck require less frequent care in pruning during the first few years and come into bearing sooner than trees having only one truck.
Some pruning and tying with ropes for support may be needed for the first 3 or 4 years or until trunks are large and rigid enough to support the developing top.
Pruning
Pomegranate trees require a small amount of pruning each winter to maintain shape and good bearing surface. Even mature trees grow vigorously, sending up a large number of shoots and basal suckers that require removal each year.
The short spurs on 2- or 3-year-old wood growing mostly on the outer edge of the tree produce flowers. These spurs develop on slow growing, mature wood that bears fruit for several years, but as the tree increases in size the wood loses its fruiting habit. Light, annual pruning encourages growth of new fruit spurs and heavy pruning reduces yields. Care should therefore be taken to leave adequate fruit-bearing wood on the tree, while removing crossing over or interfering branches. In addition, some thinning out of crowded bearing areas helps produce larger fruit having fewer wind scars.
Should below-freezing temperatures occur in early winter before trees are fully dormant, or in early spring when trees are beginning to leaf out, severe damage can be done to tree trunks. Occasionally, entire trunks are girdled and killed by frost. Remove weak or dead limbs during the next growing season, and permit a vigorous sucker to develop from ground level to replace it.
Fertilization
Mature pomegranate trees require from 1-2kg of actual nitrogen per tree per year. This may be applied in one application in fall or winter. On light soils a split application may be desirable, one-half of the fertilizer being applied in late winter and the remainder in spring. Excessive or late applications of nitrogen may delay fruit maturity and color. Some evidence indicates that excessive nitrogen applications cause increased vegetative growth and reduce fruit production.

There is not evidence to show that phosphorous (P) or potassium (K) will improve growth or fruit quality when used to fertilize pomegranate orchards. Occasionally, zinc deficiency is evident in trees. This is corrected by applying zinc sprays during the dormant season or to the foliage in spring and early summer.
Irrigation
The pomegranate can withstand long periods of drought. Although not much fruit is produced under drought conditions, trees will survive for years; then, if properly irrigated, they grow vigorously and produce good crops.
Trees will thrive and produce an abundance of fruit under high summer rainfall conditions but the fruit tends to be soft and has poor shipping and storage quality.

To produce large crops of good-quality fruit, pomegranates require about the same amount of water and frequency of application as citrus. Adequate soil moisture must be maintained throughout the growing season, particularly as harvest approaches in late summer and early fall, when it helps reduce the number of split fruit.
Most orchards are irrigated under the furrow system, but sprinkler and drip irrigation systems are satisfactory if properly designed. Orchards thrive under noncultivation and semi-noncultivation systems. Weed control is difficult because at present no pre-emergence herbicides are registered for use in pomegranate orchards.
Harvesting and Yield
The fruits ripen 6 to 7 months after flowering. The fruit cannot be ripened off the tree even with ethylene treatment. Growers generally consider the fruit ready for harvest if it makes a metallic sound when tapped. The fruit must be picked before over maturity when it tends to crack open if rained upon or under certain conditions of atmospheric humidity, dehydration by winds, or insufficient irrigation. Of course, one might assume that ultimate splitting is the natural means of seed release and dispersal.
The fruits should not be pulled off but clipped close to the base so as to leave no stem to cause damage in handling and shipping. Appearance is important, too much sun exposure causes sunscald–brown, russeted blemishes and roughening of the rind.

How to Grow Granadillas in Zimbabwe

How to Grow Granadillas 

The purple granadilla, also known as the purple passion fruit, is locally grown
commercially as well as for home use.

Climatic requirements
• Granadillas prefer moderate temperatures throughout the year.
• They are sensitive to severe frost (especially the purple granadilla).
• In hot areas, they should be planted on cool slopes and in cool areas on the warm northern slopes. The average maximum monthly temperature should not exceed 29 °C and the minimum should not fall below 5 °C.
• Granadillas prefer a high relative humidity and well-distributed rainfall of not less than 1 200 mm/year (irrigation can supplement low rainfall).

Soil requirements
Deep soil preparation is important because granadilla plants develop shallow root systems in compacted soils. Thorough soil preparation will also improve drainage. This is very important, because granadillas are sensitive to excessively wet soil conditions. It is best to avoid clay soils.

Seed
Granadillas are mostly grown from seedlings.
• When seed is used, be sure to use seed from ripe fruit selected from healthy plants.
• Scoop out the contents of a granadilla that has been cut through.
• Wash the contents to separate the seed andpulp.
• Dry the seed in the shade and sow it in seedling trays or planting bags filled with a well-prepared soil mixture.
• To enhance germination, the seed together with the pulp can be placed in a plastic container and allowed to ferment for 1 to 3 days. It is then thoroughly washed, dried and sown as soon as possible.
• Seed may be stored in closed containers at 13 °C for about 4 months.

Transplanting
• The seedlings should be ready for transplanting about 3 to 6 months after sowing the seed.
• The optimum time for transplanting is during August/September.
• The yellow granadilla is more susceptible to cold than the purple granadilla and grafted plants should therefore not be planted in areas where frost occurs.

Planting distance
Generally plant spacings of 1 to 2 m are used. The average lifespan of a healthy granadilla plantation is about 3 years. Bearing in mind the effect of viruses and soil-borne diseases, plant spacing of about 1 m could ensure high production over the short term.

Trellising system
Erecting a trellising system is the main initial expense. A sturdy construction is necessary because the trellis has to support a heavy mass. The wooden posts must be solid and resistant to termites.
Construct it as follows:
Draw a single strand of 12-gauge wire (taut) about 2 m above the surface of the ground and along the tops of the wooden posts 2 m high and about 6 m apart along the row.

Training the plants
• The granadilla vines should be trained systematically so that the framework gets a good shape.
• Tie a selected leader of each plant loosely to a stake or train it up a string until it reaches the top wire. Remove all side shoots, but not the leaves.
• As soon as the main leader reaches the top wire, it is progressively wound loosely round the wire as it grows.

Selective pruning
• The main leader is trained along the wire and the fruiting laterals are trained so that they hang down freely.
• Cut off all laterals at ground level if they start growing along the ground.

Fertilisation
The recommended fertiliser programme for granadillas is given in the table. These are only general guidelines and should be supported by soil and leaf analyses.

Diseases
Major diseases affecting granadilla crops in South Africa include:

• Damping off of seedlings caused by fungi as a result of poor seedbed management.

Control
– Plant on a well-drained site in virgin soil, or sterilised soil or growth medium.

• Foot rot (dikvoet) where the base of the stem thickens, causing cracks in the soil surface through which numerous secondary organisms can enter, resulting in total rotting of the stem. Waterlogging and overirrigation increase the incidence of the disease.

Control
– Plant in well-drained soils.

• Various viruses causing symptoms such as spots, mosaics and distortion. It is usually very difficult to identify the specific virus involved.

Control
– Affected shoots can be broken off the plant
– Frequent washing of hands reduces transmission
– Wipe instruments with 10 % of a household bleach after pruning each plant.

Pests
Pests which frequently occur on granadillas include stinkbugs and tip wilters.

Control
• Field inspections must be carried out frequently.
• Collecting insects by hand can help to control them.

Harvesting
Depending on the time of transplanting, the first fruit is usually ready for harvesting 6 to 9 months after planting. At about 18 months after planting the crop should have reached its full bearing potential. Thereafter, there are 2 main crops annually, namely a summer crop from November to January and a smaller winter crop during June and July. In the Northern Province and Mpumalanga growers sometimes have a third crop during March and April. A limited quantity of fruit will, however, be available throughout the year.

When to pick the fruit
• Fruit for the fresh market is picked 2 to 3 times a week in summer when fully developed and with a light purple colour.
• Fruit should not have a deep purple colour when harvested, because it will arrive at the market in a shrivelled condition and will not have a good market value. A wax treatment protects the fruit from drying out and could delay the shrivelling process.
• During the cooler months fruit is harvested weekly.
• Fruit for processing can be harvested when it has reached a deep purple colour.
• Fruit should be harvested early in the morning.

Growing STONE FRUITS in Zimbabwe


STONE FRUITS


Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Apricots and Almonds

Success in growing fruit trees and in producing quality fruit doesn't just happen. Careful attention must be given to basic management practices including site selection, variety selection, weed control, water and pest management.


Soil and Site Requirements

Good soil moisture drainage is essential for growing healthy, productive trees. Soils with standing water or ones that remain saturated for even a day or two following a heavy rain are unsuitable for fruit trees.

A soil fertility test before planting helps avoid undesirable sites, and minerals such as phosphorus and potassium can be added before planting where needed.

Plentiful sunlight is a key to maximizing fruit production. Choose an area that is sunny most or all of the day.

Soil Preparation and Planting

Thoroughly prepare the soil by deeply cultivating, either by hand or with a rototiller before planting. At this time also make any recommended adjustments to the soil.

Pruning and Training

Pruning a young tree controls its shape by developing a strong, well-balanced framework of scaffold branches. The open center pruning system is best suited for stone fruit trees. Since most fruit trees bear fruit on wood that grew the previous year, this wood is regrown from year to year.


Weed Control


Eliminating weed competition around young trees is critical for survival and rapid growth. Heavy weed or grass competition results in severe nitrogen deficiency (yellow foliage with red spots); trees will produce little or no growth and often may die. Ideally, keep the soil surface weed-free in an area at least as wide as the limb spread of the tree.


Fertilization


Fruit trees can be fertilized the first year after they leaf out in the spring. Place the fertilizer at and slightly beyond the canopy edge of the tree but never against the trunk. If your soil pH is above 7.5, do not apply phosphorus fertilizer.


Varieties


Nectarines

The nectarine is a mutation of a peach and not a cross between a peach and a plum. Nectarines are not generally well adapted because the smooth-skinned fruit is especially vulnerable to diseases and wind-scarring.

NECTARINE VARIETIES

Sun Red
Armking
Crimson
Redglobe


Plums

Plant at least two varieties to ensure pollination of certain varieties. The recommended varieties are Japanese or Japanese-hybrid plum varieties. The large-fruited European-type plums that commonly reach the supermarkets are not as well in South Africa because of greater disease susceptibility and lower production.


PLUM VARIETIES

Gulfruby
Gulfgold
Bruce large
Allred
Methley
Morris large
Ozark Premier

Apricots

Contrary to common belief, apricots are self-fruitful and do not require a pollinator. Unfortunately, fruiting is inconsistent on all varieties. The greatest consistency in fruiting is on trees planted near buildings, although it is not uncommon to have yearly fruiting on certain trees growing in the open. Frost damage sometimes causes crop loss, but fruit often fails to set when there is no frost damage.


APRICOT VARIETIES

Bryan
Hungarian
Moonpark
Royal
Blenheim



Peaches

Peaches are well adapted to most parts of South Africa. Because all peaches are self-fruitful, it is not necessary to plant more than one variety. One tree normally supplies more peaches than one family can consume. The later ripening varieties are of better quality.


PEACH VARIETIES

EarliGrande
TropicSweet
TropicBeauty
Springgold
Juneprince
Bicentennial
Surecrop
Royal
Sentinel large
La Feliciana
Redglobe
Summergold
Fireprince
Bounty large
Milam
Loring
Denman
Redskin

How to Grow Pears Zimbabwe

How to Grow Pears

Pears are adapted to nearly all of Zimbabwe. It is very common to find trees as much as 50 years old that are still producing fruit.
Site and Soil Requirements

Air drainage and freedom from spring frosts are important in the location of pear trees. Pear trees bloom relatively early, normally from one to several weeks before apples. 

Variety Selection and Pollination Requirements
Three varieties of pear, that are commonly grown (Pyrus communis), the Oriental pear (Pyrus serotina), and the Asian pear (Pyrus pyrifolia). 

Pear Varieties Recommended for Growing inZimbabwe

  • Packham's Triumph 
  • William's Bon Chretien (or Bartlett)
  • Forelle
  • Beurre Bosc
  • Bon Rouge
  •  Rosemarie & Flamingo

Handling and PruningPears have a tendency to grow upright with very narrow crotch angles, early triming and pruning are necessary to develop a strong tree. Plant them 5 metres apart. Fertilization
Pears do best in soils with a pH of 5.9 to 6.5. Have your soil tested before planting, and follow the recommendations. You can get information on soil testing from your county Extension office. Pear trees should be fertilized annually, using a split application. Apply one cup of 3:2:1 fertilizer per tree per year of tree age with a maximum application of 12 cups.  
Picking Maturity

To attain highest quality, pears must be harvested before they are ripe. If picked too early, they are undersized and lack sweetness and flavor. If picked too late, the fruit ripens quickly, is gritty in texture, and is subject to core breakdown.
Diseases and Insects that Attack Pears

Diseases common to pears are scab, black rot, bitter rot, pear leaf spot and fire blight. The two most common diseases are pear leaf spot and fire blight.

Fire blight is a disease that you should learn to recognize if you plan to grow pears.

CITRUS PRODUCTION | ZIMBABWE

CITRUS PRODUCTION | 

   

Soil Requirements

1. Citrus trees require deep soil having good surface and internal drainage.
2. Surface drainage refers to runoff to prevent water standing around the tree.
3. Internal drainage is the ability for water to percolate downward through the soil to avoid saturation of the root zone.

4. The presence of vigorous, healthy landscape trees is a good indication that the soil is sufficiently deep and well-drained for citrus trees

Site Selection

Site Selection influences the long-term production of the trees and the ease of field operations such as pruning, irrigation, fertilization, and weed and pest management.

Types of Citrus

1. Sour Oranges (Citrus aurantium L)

2. Limes (Citrus aurantifolia L)

3. Lemon (Citrus Limon L)

4. Sweet Oranges(Citrus sinensis L)

5. Grapefruit(citrus paradis L)

6. Mandrin(Citrus reticulata L)

7. Kumquat(Fortunella margarita L)

Selection and Planting

Planting depth is of importance to the growth of citrus trees.
The rootstock is somewhat resistant to foot rot disease, but the top is quite susceptible.
 If the bud union is too low with respect to surrounding ground, the tree could contract foot rot and die
The practice of scooping out grass and soil to form a large depression for ease of watering almost guarantees the death of a citrus tree.

Young Tree Care

Watering Should be done two to three times the first week and one to two times per week for the next few weeks, depending upon soil type, rainfall and time of year.
Nutrition

Do not apply fertilizer until the tree begins new growth after planting. Fertilize monthly through October.

Weed Control

Good weed control is essential for rapid establishment and vigorous growth of young citrus trees. Eliminate weeds for several meters around the tree. As the spread of the tree increases, widen the grass-free area beyond the drip-line.

Cold Protection

Wraps are used on the trunk of young citrus in the belief that they will provide significant cold protection. With one exception, none provide more than a few degrees of protection to a young tree trunk.

Nutrition

The soil must provide 13 nutrient elements essential to all plant growth. Clay soils usually contain plenty of iron, but citrus trees may exhibit iron deficiency in the early spring. Usually, the deficiency clears up as the soil warms up.

Weed Control

Control weeds and grass beneath citrus trees to reduce competition for fertilizer and water. Also, weeds and grass may harbor pests which can affect the fruit or trees.

Pests and Diseases Control

Citrus pests in South Africa include insects, mites and diseases which may affect the health and vigor of the trees or the appearance of the fruit.

Foot rot is a fungal disease present in many South African soils. Both sour orange and trifoliate orange rootstocks have some resistance to the disease.

Productivity and Maturity

Most budded citrus trees can produce a few fruit in the second year after planting, but usually do not produce until the third year. Thereafter, production increases annually as tree size increases. Seedling trees may not bear for several years.